As usual I searched for answers on the internet but most people simply complain that this particular charge controller is not efficient, or it can only be used as a power distribution device.
Basically, the solar panel kit is only good for demonstrating the concept I have to say that from outside, the charge controller looks nice and solid. Recently, I got some spare time and started making diagnosis on this charge controller and I found that while it indeed charges during the day, it discharges as the sun goes down. I suspect that when the voltage from the solar panel is below the voltage of the battery, it may be discharging the battery. I don't know this for sure since I haven't open the device to see the design.
This device does discharge at night at about 30mA if you leave it on the LED display uses power unless you turn the LED display off which is recommended. One experiment I did was to simply add a blocking diode on the back of the charge controller. I initially placed the diode on the battery side but based on recommendations from "evilmunkey", the diode should now be put on the solar panel side. The diode I am using is 1N which happens to be in my toolbox so I guess many other diodes would work as well.
Also make sure that the cathode lead of the 1N should be connected to the charge controller side while the anode should go to the solar panel side.
Previously I experimented with putting the diode on the battery side but I was concerned that it might overcharge the battery so now the diode is on the solar panel side. After the modification, my SLA battery is charged better.
Since I don't know the charging circuit inside the box, the effect of this added blocking diode on the solar panel and battery charging is not clear. Theoretically the charge controller should already have blocking diodes on the solar panel side, otherwise it will give all back the solar power at night.
The ultimate solution would be to look at the components inside the box and see what it's doing. There are many different kinds of controllers and they all work differently. I assume that this is a PWM type but I don't really know. For example, does it have a microcontroller to control the voltage?
What about current limiting? Given all the unknowns, I wouldn't risk charging any expensive batteries. I also leave the battery outdoor in case of outgassing.
So far it works fine and the battery is actually revived to a certain extent. This is very much an experiment so be careful not to overcharge. Finally, make sure to add an inline fuse near the battery terminal such as 5A.
It's better to be on the safe side. If anyone has any better suggestions improving this unit, please let me know. I may open the box in the future and write another instructable later. For now, I need to move on to the next project with desulfator. Participated in the Instructables Outdoor Projects Contest. Well hopefully this pics to examine the motherboard I'm really new to electronics I got this at a junk store for five bucks and I opened it up two of the plugs were unplugged so I don't know if someone went around and switched some of these plugs on me or what's going on but that it appears that the LED screen is not working I got one little light to come on under the lighter plugin thing I'm trying to wire it up to a suitcase solar panel that went to a electric fence I just wanted to run an LED light if anyone can find a diagram of this or that can give a breakdown of what this motherboard is that would be amazing.
Nothing but two leads sticking up through the board. What is the part number for this component? Reply 1 year ago. Amperage would have to be determined by operating conditions. Note: Fuses are often used with a reverse connected diode to prevent reverse polarity hookups and circuit damage. They are usually only set in response to actions made by you which amount to a request for services, such as setting your privacy preferences, logging in or filling in forms.
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NEW Christmas Savings. Product Length 39 in. Product Weight Shipping Weight Browse Our Most Viewed Deals. Air Compressors. This wire terminates in a connector common to Harbor Freight solar products but its exact type specification is an automotive connector known as SAE. It is definitely not the MC4 connector common in rooftop solar installations. While this connector follows the pattern of SAE J and J, it is not explicitly covered by either specification.
The four panels connect into a 4-to-1 module. The four wire side are half a meter long, and the unified side has a 3 meter long wire towards the controller. A final half-meter long adapter has the SAE HF solar automotive connector on one end and a barrel connector on the other. Adding it all up: Each of the panels can be up to 3.
The package includes a 1 meter cable to connect controller to battery. The kit included two LED light bulbs, each of which have a 5 meter long wire.
Curiously, the long wire ends in a standard light bulb socket. But instead of the V AC household voltage we would expect from such a socket, it carries the battery DC voltage. This is a decidedly nonstandard and confusing way to do things. The simple 10 Amp charge controller covers the basics, guarding against battery overcharging and over-discharging at adjustable voltage thresholds.
The manual claims there is over-current protection as well, but there appears to be no way to adjust the current limit, either for charging or for discharging. I found this kit to be quite simple to put together and connect. It does a great job at keeping my batteries charged Even in low light.
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